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Tohono O'odham - say what?!

They used to be known as the Pagago Indians - a bit easier to remember. Then in 1986, they changed their tribal name to the Tohono O'odham. In any case, it is a unique tribe. Members live both in the United States and Mexico and are divided into 4 reservations in separate geographic areas. The fact that members live both north and south of the border causes all sorts of problems for the tribe, particularly after 9/11. And, many members who served in the Armed Forces lived in remote areas or were born in Mexico so get no recognition or benefits from having served their country since they can't produce birth certificates. Until 9/11, they could move freely between the two countries on their ancestral lands.

Tom and Nancy Vineski (The Tom and Nancy Roadshow blog) had stopped at the Tohono O'odham Cultural Center and Museum, which grabbed my interest. My friend Nan and I decided to venture out on a rather drizzly day. The Cultural Center is just south of Sells on Indian Road 19. Sells is about 60 miles west of I-19 off the Ajo Highway or Arizona Highway 86. The desert was in full glory with tons of flowers and greenery everywhere.

The Cultural Center and Museum is housed in an impressive building. The main exhibit showcases the beautiful basketry the Tohono O'odham are known for plus their history. As you might imagine, their depiction of their history is different than what we might read about elsewhere.

I was surprised to learn about some of the native plants that are harvested and cultivated. One staple is the bud of the cholla cacti! (That's the family that jumping cactus is in.) It is high in calcium and vitamins. I had read the Tohono O'odham harvested the fruit of the saguaro cacti and then fermented it to use in a rain ceremony. However, the fruit is also eaten fresh, dried, and the seeds ground into flour. The fruit of the Organ Pipe and Senta cacti are used similarly. Mesquite pods are ground into flour and tepary beans are cultivated and cooked.

After our visit, we stopped at the Desert Rain Cafe in Sells on Main Street, also recommended by Tom and Nancy. Every dish contains at least one traditional product such as cholla buds, tepary beans or saguaro fruit syrup. Prices were very reasonable and there was a nice selection on the menu. I tried the Cholla Bud, Jicama and Citrus Salad. I'm not sure if it was the citrus dressing or how they preserve the cholla buds, but I won't have that again! Nan went for a more traditional dish of enchiladas with a side of rice and tepary beans. She did not care for the tepary beans but I thought they were delicious. In fact, I bought a package of them in the little gift shop next door. I'll let you know how they turn out. I was tempted to purchase dried cholla buds and see if they would taste better prepared differently, but figured tepary beans was adventuresome enough!

The Tohono O'odham is not a well known Native American tribe, but they are most interesting. If your RV travels take you to Ajo or Tucson, I recommend a visit to the Cultural Center and Museum and breakfast or lunch at the Desert Rain Cafe. Tom and Nancy boondocked on the parking lot at the Cultural Center traveling between Ajo and Tucson. The roads are fine for RVs. You could also do this as a day trip from Tucson or Ajo, leaving the RV behind. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak

Oaxacan cooking class- at least no grasshoppers!

In 2006, George, DeAnna and I took a Cajun cooking class in Bisbee from chef, Helen Saul. We had so much fun. George and I cooked the Cajun dishes we learned for friends and family.

Helen teaches several other types of cooking at her Bisbee Cooking School. We all wanted to take the Oaxacan cooking class. With George and I planning a month in Tucson, we decided to see if we could catch her class. The one offered in Bisbee did not work out, so DeAnna suggested we see if Helen would come to Tucson and teach in her kitchen. Helen agreed.

We had enough people for two sections - nearly all were RVers. George and I, along with DeAnna and Vi, were on night two. Jim, Tom and Nan were the cooks on Thursday (photo above right). Helen also agreed to depart from her usual policy of allowing only the cooks to eat. Spouses could share the meal for a very reasonable fee. In fact, while Jim cooked, Bobbie and I went to Zumba- an energetic aerobic dance to Latin American music. Bobbie came back in time to join the other two spouses for dinner.

We had seven items on the menu (a 8th scrubbed because of lack of ingredients). We prepared them all. We were most excited about the Mole Negro Oaxaquena. Oaxaca is known as the birthplace of the seven moles (pronounced mo-LAY). Mole means "stew," but the key ingredient in most moles is unsweetened chocolate! The combination of chiles and chocolate is astonishing. While there are seven types of moles, each family has a slightly different recipe and probably each batch comes out slightly different. Helen said that ours tasted different than the first group's because we added more tomatillos.

We started out with introductions and then some background on Oaxacan cooking. Oaxacans eat a lot of insects, including grasshoppers! Tom had lived in Mexico for quite some time with his wife Nancy, and agreed that deep-fried grasshoppers are quite tasty. Fortunately, they were not on the menu tonight!

We then went to the kitchento prepare the meal. At first, there was lots of chopping, dry roasting on a hot comal or cast iron skillet, and letting the rice and chayote squash begin cooking. George prepared the chiles by removing seeds and veins and then we each took a turn softening them before adding them to the broth. Near the very end, we added the unsweetened chocolate to the mole and additional spices and fine-tuned them to get just the right taste.

Our menu was

• Queso Oaxaca Herba, Oaxacan cheese cubes covered with chipolte powder and herbs, for an appetizer along with a shot of drinking tequilla.
• Ensalada La Olla, a salad with a delicious lime dressing.
• Mole Negro Oaxaquena, chayote squash, fried plantains (used bananas instead- pictured above) for starch, and Arroz Rustica (rice).
• Dessert was Frutas con Crema and Chocolate. (Fruit with creme and grated chocolate).
• Wine.

We made a huge pot so all took extra mole and rice home. 

The meal was delicious and we are already talking about inviting Helen back in the fall around the Day of the Dead time for another class - probably creative Southwest cooking. If you are RVing in the area, this is a fun way to socialize plus add some dishes to your cooking repertoire. Let me know if you'd like to be notified about a fall class. Or, if you are near Bisbee in your RV travels, check the Bisbee Cooking School Web site and see if something is offered that you'd be interested in. It's not a far drive from Bisbee, or stay at the Shady Dell RV Park in a vintage Airstream trailer or your own. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak

Fun Foodie Find in Tucson

We make it a point to stop at the 17th Street Market in Tucson when RVing in the area. We love looking at all the different kinds of food. This visit, our friends introduced us to Lee Lee Oriental Supermarket. It is cleaner, with more of a selection. Located at Orange Grove and La Cholla on the west side, Lee Lee's is worth a stop.

We first ate Vietnamese food in the restaurant in the building. Our first time for Vietnamese. Both George and I liked our choices. Our four friends ordered sampler platters, with mixed reviews. The meatball on the sampler plates was pronounced inedible. It looked like pale pink Spam with a strange texture. DeAnna said she would get soup next time. Soup was served with a plate of sprouts and greens to mix in it. The regular meals were served over white or red rice or vermicelli noodles on greens. There were more than 100 to choose from. 

After lunch, we cruised the store. The produce department was most interesting. There were 4 or 5 varieties of bananas. We've cooked bok choy. There were 5 or 6 more types of choy. Those types of food we could figure out.

 

There was also produce like the sing kaw. We had no idea what that is used for. A google search turned up no results so it must have a different name. 

Shelves were packed with various rice, noodles, ethnic sauces and other curiosities. We stuck with known food items. I was tempted by banana blossoms, but the fellow working the produce section and I had a serious communication gap. I understood they are edible, but had no idea how to prepare or eat them. It would be fun to have more knowledge or a recipe that needed special ingredients and then shop here.

The meat department was also a wonder. Squid and all sorts of fish- whole fish and parts, plus unusual (to me) parts of animals. Some did not look too appetizing. One unusual item was "silkie chicken." We knew it was chicken, but nothing about it. Alive, it is a cute chicken with white, silky fur. Plucked, it is black. Foodista says it is rather tough and usually used in soups and curries. Another name for it is the "cursed chicken!"

Even if you don't have food items you are looking for, I recommend a stop. Besides north Tucson, Lee Lee's is located in Chandler and Peoria in the Phoenix area. You'll marvel at the varieties of food that other people eat! Jaimie Hall Bruzenak

Montana LLC - is it worth taking a chance?

Many RVers have registered their RVs in Montana after setting up a Limited Liability Corporation (LLC) in that state. The corporation then owns the RV and, since Montana has no sales tax, the corporation pays none. RVers choose this option to avoid paying large amounts of sales tax when registering their vehicles.

It works for many but some states are not happy about missing out on that revenue. According to the RV Daily Report, Massachusetts has identified 23 Massachusetts RV owners who have set up LLCs and registered their vehicles in Montana instead of the state where they are residing. They suspect there are more and are unhappy that Montana will not release information. These RV owners have been given warnings that they must register their RV in Massachusetts. In cases cited in the MyFox.com article, the amounts were in the $9,000 to $11,000 range plus a yearly excise tax imposed by municipalities as well. So far the state has collected more than $200,000. The Inspector General's Report, linked in the Fox article, explains the process they went through to identify residents evading taxes.

If a vehicle is driven in Massachusetts for more than 30 days in the state, it must be registered there. Most states have such a law. Full-time RVers may not stay in one place for that long so it wouldn't be a problem. But for RV owners who actually reside in a state, the likelihood of being caught increases. California, for example, encourages citizens to turn in neighbors or co-workers who have vehicles registered in other states- especially Oregon, which has no sales tax. There can also be fees and penalties in addition to having to register, pay the missing sales tax and perhaps even back years' fees. It could get expensive.

I expect states will get more aggressive about finding "lost fees." I'm not sure I'd risk it unless I were moving about continuously. However, it is an individual decision. Just go into it with your eyes open, knowing you take a risk. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak

RV socializing on the trail

We are neighbors with RV friends for a short time and then go our separate ways. Sometimes we are in the same area but not parked near each other. An eating event is always a popular way to socialize but a group of us took advantage of the good weather and beautiful desert by hiking in Catalina State Park, on the northwest part of Tucson, the other day. It's located about 9 miles north of Tucson off Oracle Road (AZ Hwy 77) close to Tangerine Road.

Catalina State Park is not on the closure list for Arizona State Parks- at least not at this time. They do have RV sites - the closest state park to downtown Tucson now that Picacho Peak State Park is closed. The park also has a number of hiking trails to choose from. Since Clea the dog was coming, we needed to stay out of the wilderness area so selected Sutherland Trail. Unfortunately, after crossing the river several times we missed the turnoff to Sutherland so walked the Canyon Loop Trail with a couple of side trips for a total of 4 leisurely miles.

While not super strenuous, it was a nice way to visit with friends while  enjoying the gorgeous desert scenery. Tom Vineski (Solar 101 columnist for RV Lifestyles Ezine) was one of our group. While I hear from Tom via email, I hadn't seen him or Nancy for more than a year - perhaps longer. Al and DeAnna, part-time RVers, plus new friends from Tucson and Alicia, a neighbor and senior at U of A made up the group along with George and me.

Catalina has some relatively easy trails near the trailhead parking or strenuous ones that take you as far as Mount Lemmon so it's easy to pick one that suits your mood and ability. Ours turned out to be perfect for enjoying the day, each other and lunch out on the trail. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak

RV Lifestyle Ezine- USFS discount restored

Do your RV travels include cities? While many RVers avoid them, cities have much to offer. Tucson, where George and I are for the month, has many free and low-cost events, plenty of scenic hiking, RV friends and a special energy. Read the latest RV Lifestyle Ezine, section 2- "RV Lifestyle: Diving into an Area" for more on this.

This issue also includes Tom and Nancy's Vineski's Solar 101column describing how they found another 10 percent of power in their system. You can too. And, the good news, the U.S. Forest Service withdrew its proposal to reduce the camping discount for seniors and disabled passholders. Read more.

Waffle House RV hits town

If you are in Columbus, OH, that is.

Inside, it's a regular RV but the outside is decorated like a restaurant and attracts attention. Great marketing device!

It could lead to an opportunity for working on the road. Years ago, a couple who belong to the Escapees RV Club were selected to drive Steve Zikman around in a bright yellow RV as he toured the country to publicize Chicken Soup for the Traveler's Soul. (Steve Zikman wrote the foreword for RV Traveling Tales: Women's Journeys on the Open Road)

Is driver Kevin Upchurch an RVer? Or, is he an employee of Waffle House who is also driving the RV? Don't know, but sometimes opportunities to drive and promote come up. I remember seeing an article about the Oscar Mayer Wienermobiles and seeing that drivers were needed. They've been around since the 1930s.

 RVs are a creative way to advertise. They are big and noticeable if painted differently. In 2003, Bill (my late husband) and I traveled with the Route 66 Caravan, joining them here (photo) at the Standing on the Corner Park in Winslow, AZ and traveling with them to Chicago and back to AZ. This is Guy Randall's photo- mine are unavailable as I write this- showing the decorated bus that Jim Conkle drove. We definitely attracted attention for Hampton Inn, the sponsor of the Save a Landmark campaign and the trip. We weren't paid, but participated in the ceremonies and helped document the trip. The trip fulfilled a lifelong dream to drive Route 66 for Bill.

RVs are used by politicians campaigning, artists and musicians traveling to various gigs besides full-time RVers and vacationers. They've been converted into restaurants and restrooms. Their uses are limited only by someone's imagination and creativity. Keep your eyes open- maybe you'll spot the Waffle House RV! Jaimie Hall Bruzenak

Advice for RVers: How to start a conversation

It's simple. Carry a butterfly net!

We were hiking Pima Canyon in the Catalina Mountains. We had gone on a weekday as reviews had advised. Trail head parking was minimal with no street parking allowed and the parking lot at 10 a.m. was close to full. We started up the trail- like a cattle chute- a narrow strip fenced on either side to take you through private property that borders the beginning of the trail. Shortly, though, we got into the Pusch Ridge Wilderness in the Coronado Forest. If you don't look behind you, civilization drops away.

We had gone less than a mile when we spotted two men, one with a butterfly net. He was chatting with other hikers. As we went by, George asked, "Lepidoptera?" I heard Doug answer, "How did you know that?" and the conversation began. (Lepidoptera is the large order of insects that includes moths and butterflies. George knows that from fly fishing.) Tom, the other man, was also interested in caves and bats and used nets for catching bats as well as butterflies. Handy device! And a good conversation starter.

We hiked with them for about a mile, spotting a few butterflies and learning names of various flowers and plants along the way. 

It clouded up so wasn't a good day for seeing butterflies, but we did see a couple of other species and enjoyed Pima Canyon. The hike follows and crosses the stream flowing out of the mountains. We made it to our goal - a small man-made dam. Tom told us it was put in to provide a year-round source of water for bighorn sheep, which frequent the area. With a number of pools and shaded areas, we could see why it would be a popular family hike.

 

It is interesting seeing the upland Sonoran desert next to a riparian or stream-side environment. Tall cottonwoods cluster in the mid section of the hike where water is plentiful. Above you can see the spring runoff right up against prickly pear cacti.

 

There are nice rocks for lunch at the destination. Stop at the Sprouts and Whole Foods right off Oracle a short ways south of where McGee turns off Oracle - if you want to grab trail mix or a wrap for lunch for your hike. 

George's Keenes or hybrid shoes (left) turned out to be a good choice since we had to cross the stream about a dozen times. Don't let the Sierra Club description of "easy" fool you. Ask "easy" compared to what. It was about 3.2 miles to the dam with an 850 foot elevation gain. A hiking stick is good for working your way over the many rocks along the path.

Tom had told us to look for a crested saguaro on our way out. We spotted it as we approached the edge of the wilderness- a rather elaborate one. I also found a fallen saguaro. As you can see from the roots- or lack of them - they don't have an extensive root system. Most of their roots are small and near the surface to grab surface runoff as it comes by.

A very interesting hike- so close to Tucson as the photo near the start of the hike shows - yet round the bend you could be a million miles away. I like those kind of hikes.

And, there are two morals to this hike:

1. Carry a butterfly net and you'll find all sorts of people to talk to.
2. Talk to a person carrying a butterfly net and you'll be surprised at what you can learn. We got suggestions for other places to visit plus learned about butterflies and flowers.

Either way, you connect with local people and learn more about the area - part of the benefits of RVing and experiencing different areas as we travel. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak

Photos:

• Looking back at Tucson from the beginning of the Pusch Ridge Wilderness area
• Doug (with butterfly net), Tom and George
• Sara butterfly, one of several species of "lepidoptera" we saw
• The Catalina Mountains form the sides of Pima Canyon, an upland desert community
• Prickly pear cactus right alongside the stream during spring runoff
• Desert chicory
• George and Jaimie at the man-made dam
• Water spills over the dam, made to provide water for big horn sheep
• George with his Keene/hybrid shoes
  
• Crested saguaro
• Fallen saguaro showing the skimpy root system

Other Tucson hike:

• Hiking Tortolita Mountains- Wild Burro Canyon

Forest Service squashes plan to slash senior/disabled discounts

Last December, we reported that the U.S. Forest Service had proposed allowing the concessionaires that ran Forest Service campgrounds to give senior and disabled pass holders only 10% off the regular price for camping rather than 50%.

Yesterday, USDA Forest Service Chief Tom Tidwell announced his decision that the proposed policy would not be implemented. According to the press release:

The Chief’s decision leaves in place a 50 percent discount at campgrounds run by private concessions for holders of Golden Age and Golden Access Passports and Interagency Senior and Access Passes. Concessioners are not required to accept passes at day use sites. Seniors age 62 and older pay a one-time $10 fee for the Senior Pass. Lifetime Access Passes for people with disabilities are free.

The Forest Service received more than 4000 comments on the proposal.

This is good news for RVers, many of whom are 62 years of age and older. Seniors and disabled are often on fixed incomes so this proposal would have eliminated an affordable source of camping. Thanks to all who sent in comments. There are surely better ways for concessionaires to make money than off those who can often ill afford it. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak

Related post:

Seniors may lose half-price camping in national forests

Hiking Tortolita Mountains- Tucson

Tucson has an amazing number of hikes within a short distance of the city. Wherever there is a mountain there seems to be a hike up the canyon leading into it.

This is the time of year to be hiking in the desert. It's green, not too hot and- so far at least - no snakes. A few wildflowers are starting to bloom, adding spots of color to the desert. 

Experiencing the desert up close and personal is good exercise and gets us out of the RV. This upland section of the Sonoran has tall plants and is a lush part of the desert.

Six of us hiked Wild Burro Canyon the other day.This is a nice wash, coming out of the Tortolita Mountains, reached off Tangerine Road at the northern-most exit off I-10. We headed east to Dove Mountain Road and the new Ritz-Carlton Hotel. The hotel has blocked access to the original trail head (even though Peggy, a local, said they promised not to). The parking lot along Dove Mountain adds probably one-half to three-quarters of a mile to the hike.

We hiked up Wild Burro Trail, but then turned onto the Lower Javelina Trail, which actually took us up out of the wash and about 100 feet above it. Two other trails - Upper Javelina Trail and the Alamo Springs Trail - take you higher up the mountain and are more strenuous. Our choice turned out to be a nice workout with beautiful views but not too hard on knees. The slight breeze offset the warm sun. We stopped to admire the few wildflowers and debate their names and then ate sitting on rocks before descending to the wash and rejoining Wild Burro Trail again. We hiked up a spur, hoping to see the waterfall, which we suspected was a dry fall since any water had long dried up. No luck in finding falls or water. Following the Lower Javelina Trail would take you just above the wash on the opposite side we hiked up.

When the Lower Javelina Trail crossed Wild Burro Trail, we took that. Three of us hiked back on Wild Burro Trail after we explored the remains of an old stone cabin, just above the wash. It was apparently lived in by cattle ranchers. A water tank, cistern and what looked like a cement swimming pool remained from the old ranch.

George, Peggy and I decided to climb up the Wild Burro Trail a little father as it ascends to the rim, getting level with what we think was the falls before turning back.

Returning, the Wild Burro Trail crisscrosses the wash. In one section, cholla pieces littered the trail. Clea, the dog that accompanied us, had some encounters; others of us including yours truly had pieces stick to our boots. Carrying a comb for removing cactus is a good idea in cholla country.

 George, Peggy and I, who went a little further, hiked almost seven miles with an elevation gain of about 500 feet. 

This is not a trail head or area where you can take an RV. Leave it in an RV park or parking lot and drive your tow or towed vehicle. Take plenty of water, a hat and sunscreen. (Don't forget to reapply or you'll end up with sunburn like I did.) With the choice of trails in this canyon, you can make your hike as long and as strenuous as you'd like. It's hard to believe this rugged, beautiful country is so close to city. Houses and development are encroaching, but I hope these canyons are protected for the long term. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak