What does an 1886 wooden schooner have in common with RVing? Not much, though both RV and schooner are self-contained. The 
Isaac H. Evans, which George and I sailed on even had RV toilets. And, like RVing, sailing in a schooner gives you a whole different experience than other kinds of travel. Sailing is more laid back. As our captain said, "the shortest distance between two points is not a sailboat!"
George had wanted to take a schooner cruise for years. So, this was the year. We signed up for a four-night cruise on the Isaac Evans out of Rockland because his brother- and sister-in-law had enjoyed their trip several years ago and because we'd have two photography instructors on board for this sailing. We were not disappointed.
Captain Brenda welcomed us aboard on Sunday night, giving us a rundown of what to expect and the required safety talk. We introduced ourselves to our fellow passengers. She explained we'd be sailing in Penobscot Bay but that each trip is unique, depending on the winds, tides and the weather, plus getting back to Rockland on schedule.
We slept on board in port, leaving the next morning after breakfast. Our first day was beautiful - and slow going. Not much wind. The Isaac Evans has no motor but it did have a wooden dinghy with a motor that could be used to push the boat. We used that a fair amount as we sailed past lighthouses and between North Haven and Vinalhaven- two of the larger islands in Penobscot Bay. Our first night was spent anchored off Burnt Island where we had our lobster bake. Usually the lobster bake is the last night, but because rain was predicted, Captain Brenda decided we'd hold it when it was nice. While waiting for the fire to get hot and then the lobsters and corn to steam, we took photos of the Evans with sails up and munched on hamburgers, hotdogs, sausage and chips and dip.
The dinghy's motor conked out after one trip ferrying us to the island, so that meant using the other two wooden dinghies to row us back and forth. The next morning, Captain Brenda demonstrated the jack-of-all-trades that she is and has to be to operate a schooner. She, with the help of first mate Jay, repaired the motor. We would see her soldering, helping Wally cook and sewing sails. She and the crew performed for us in a last night talent show; she is woman of many talents!
The Evans was formally an oyster boat and has an interesting history. It's also a National Historical Landmark! You can read more about her history and how Captain Brenda came to acquire her at their blog post about the 125th anniversary party for the Evans. She is a shallow-draft vessel so can access places other ships can't go. While on board, we had the opportunity to help out - or not. Many of us pitched in raising and lowering sails and raising the anchor. One or two passengers took the wheel, still others helped out in the galley.
Our second day was cloudy with sprinkles and a good wind. We sailed north at 8 knots and anchored near Holbrook Island in the early afternoon. A few of us rowed over to Indian Bar and hiked on Cape Rosier in the Holbrook Island Sanctuary. We were joined by lots of mosquitoes but saw old foundations and a family cemetery of the Bakeman's. I took photos of some cool looking mushrooms.
Because rain was predicted Thursday, when we were due back, we had a long, but pleasant day, and sailed most of the way back to Rockland. Several potential spots to anchor for the night were passed in order to minimize the sail in the morning. We anchored at Clam Cove, just north of Rockland. Our last night included a talent show with several passengers contributing songs and jokes after the crew did their hilarious skit. We woke to fog and rain and came in using the dinghy's power rather than raising the sails.
The food was amazing on the trip, especially considering that all of the food on board is prepared on a 1904 Glenwood "C" no.7 wood stove in a very small galley. Wally fixed excellent meals in addition to being a deckhand when it was time to raise or lower the sails or perform other tasks. Brenda, deckhand and galley slave, was his able assistant, contributing some ingredients from her New Hampshire farm, Crooked Pine Farm and Bakery. Each meal had several dishes, accommodating different dietary choices, and was plentiful. If you were hungry after a meal, it was your own fault!
The Evans will accommodate 22 passengers plus crew. What it translated to is small rooms. We ended up with bunks, thinking that would be more comfortable for George who had a bone spur removed in a shoulder recently. Our room had a very low ceiling except for a small area; needless to say, we both bumped our head a number of times. However, that was a small price to pay for the experience.
The islands in Pensobscot Bay are gorgeous. Some are tiny; some, like Vinalhaven and North Haven support rather large populations and businesses. Daily ferries serve them. What appeals to me are the rocky shores and cliffs with pine trees growing up to the edge on so many islands. My idea of beauty! We saw several bald eagles, seals, some porpoises, osprey and probably a dozen lighthouses. The lighthouses have one of two designs on top, according to Florie, an artist on the trip who sketched a number of them, but are unique in design otherwise. The lighthouse below on the left is the Rockland Breakwater Light, a 9/10 of a mile walk out on the breakwater as you leave Rockland. The other is called the Mark Island Light or the Deer Island Thorofare Light.
We did see some of the other schooners that ply Penosbscot Bay under sail and had one or two in view each night. Overall, though, boat traffic was light, possibly because some people hauled their boats out early because of Hurricane Irene.
Our schooner cruise was fun and relaxing. Part of that was the nature of the trip, part our fellow passengers and part our captain who could be playful and clearly loves her work. Four nights was a good amount for us. The Evans, and other ships, offer one-night, two-night and six-night trips as well. We were advised to leave electronics and work stuff at home. Since we were going to be talking about taking photos with our phones, I took my iPhone. Surprisingly, I got a signal in many locations. I didn't spend much time with it- forwarding orders to Sue and deleting emails I didn't want. We also took our iPads along, for reading, though we didn't do much of that either. The scenery was too gorgeous and we were busy taking photos or visiting with fellow passengers. And, small world - Marty, one of the passengers, had taught art at the same junior high where I taught my first year in Maryland - way back in the '60s!
Next post, I'll share a little about theme cruises and the photography aspect of our trip. Jaimie Hall Bruzenak
